Project Diary: How to Paint a Fortress of Redemption Part 2

It’s been a few weeks since I last updated about this post. That’s because things have slowed down since I’m working on the tower, and to be honest, I’ve also been distracted with the new Chaos Space Marines codex and the Horus Heresy book. I’ve been tinkering around with bits seeing what I could make, and painting test models for various paint schemes. I did take the time to get a large part of the tower done along with the floor, and so I figured I’d post an update and guide.

To begin with, this is the method I’ve used for all the floor piece for the Fortress of Redemption.

1. Major floor parts are done with Blazing Orange.

2. Parts that will be metal are painted black. In this case the hatch.

Next is a combination of washes using Secret Weapon Baby Poop and Vallejo Sepia Shade

Finally, the hatch is painted with Boltgun Metal and washed with Vallejo Sepia Shade. A light dry brush of Boltgun Metal is also applied to the floor.

The front of the tower posed a very unique challenge. I’m sure there are people out there with the air brush skills to do most of the painting with an air brush. I, however, do not have those skills, so all of the tower is painted by hand. I can say that after everything is done I’ll need to go back over and do some clean up work.

  1. Cloak was painted using Vallejo Light Grey.
  2. Wings were painted using DecoArth Colonial Blue.
  3. Halo and sword hilt was painted Scorched Brown.
  4. Rock was painted using Vallejo Deep Blue Grey.
  5. Bones and scroll were painted with Kommando Khaki.

That part alone took almost a week, and you can probably see that I haven’t even touched the bottom half of the tower.

  1. Cloak was painted using Dark Angel Green.
  2. Wings were painted using Fortress Grey trying to leave a little of the Colonial Blue still visible.
  3. Halo and sword hilt were painted using Shinning Gold.
  4. Sword was painted using Boltgun Metal.
  5. Rock was dry brushed using Fortress Grey and Skull White.

This process took another week and a half, so it was about halfway through this step that I took a break. You can clearly see in this picture where I’ll need to go back and do some clean up work.

That’s where I stand now with the Fortress of Redemption. The discouraging thing is that this is only one of the four panels that make up the tower. It throws into light how long it’s going to take me to do this. I’m not dumb enough to set a ridiculous goal of when this thing will get done, but I would like to try to have it done be the end of January. Check back for more updates.


Project Diary: How to Paint a Fortress of Redemption Part 1

The other week I posted the first part of my Fortress of Redemption build. After a quick trip to Atlanta and weather cooperating, I was able to begin to paint it. This post is both a project update as well as a tutorial on how I am painting my fortress. I don’t use Games-Workshop paints very much anymore, but I will post color equivalence as I go along. Before we begin, I’m breaking this tutorial into parts. One because the project is so large and very time-consuming, but also to show how I do various parts of the model. In this tutorial, I’m focusing on the main color of the fort, or the “armor” color as I like to call it.

STEP 1 Prime

After building was completed I primed the whole model using Floquil Light Gray Figure-Primer. I like this for a few reasons. For one, it’s an actual primer so it will adhere to plastic, metal, and resign while giving a very strong and smooth surface for paint to work on. It covers so much better than any primer GW has put out. A single 3 oz can can prime this whole model.

STEP 2 Base Coat

I base coated the whole model using Testors’ Model Master Custom Spray Enamel Dark Green. This would be equivalent to spraying the whole thing with Catachan Green. Since I don’t ever plan to strip this model and I didn’t use any brushes or an airbrush, I don’t really care that it’s an enamel paint.

STEP 3 Dry Brush

I dry brushed Anita’s Craft Paint Foliage across the entire model. You can achieve the same color using Games-Workshop’s Camo Green. Dry brushing is probably not an accurate term for what you do. I load up a large brush and wipe off most of the paint, but I then press and swirl the brush. The goal of this stage is to not necessarily get the raised edges, but also tinge the model a lighter green while allowing the base color to show through.

Streaks and splotches will probably still appear where ever you begin. That’s why I would do a quick dry brush across raised areas. The paint will also appear extremely bright when you begin, but will dull and darken as it dries.  I’m not too concerned about the streaks that visible as I will be painting all the details and wings different colors. If streaking is a problem or bothers you, then you can always go over the area with Catachan Green or Vallejo’s Olive Grey.

I chose to go with the military green scheme as opposed to the brushed metal look that appears on the box because I want all my military buildings to be uniform. Since I plan on painting an Imperial Bastion and Sky Shield in a similar scheme, I want my fortress to tie into that theme.

I will follow-up with another project update and tutorial as I move on to other sections. The next section will be the floor and tower, so check back. If you have any questions or criticism, let me know in the comments.

Project Diary: Fortress of Redemption

It’s finally done being put together. This was a Christmas present from my wife, yes, I know I have an awesome wife, from the time it was first released, and it has taken me this long to finally begin to work on it. Most of you know that this was release as a piece for the Planet Strike add-on, and I got it thinking to use it in either Apocalypse or just as a really cool piece of terrain, especially with all the nice little Dark Angel details.  Now in sixth edition, it’s an actual fortification choice, so I figured I’d get my butt in gear.

To begin with, I glued only what was absolutely necessary, so the tower, bunkers, walkway, and lascannon all come apart for easy storage.

You can see here where I drilled and placed magnets for the heavy bolters. The walkway and bunkers also have magnets to help keep the structure together when on the game board. The search lights on top of the tower are the only detail that is glued, and the only detail that I’m going to put on this thing. As of right now, the glue for the heavy bolter magnets are still drying. Once those are done, I plan to cover the magnets with green stuff mainly to prevent the magnets from breaking away from the model.

As you can see, there is no secret that this is a very big piece of terrain. Here’s a collection of scouts to help give some sense of size. I can see that painting this thing is going to take some time. Thankfully, I have an air brush that will help speed the process up. If everything works out, I should be able to prime the model tomorrow. Look for an update and maybe even a painting tutorial.