How to Paint Imperial Guard Infantry: Airborne Guard Armor

The other day I posted an article on How to Paint Imperial Guard Infantry Camouflage. Well, today, I’m going to continue the process and show you how I painted the armor. The process is not difficult, and if you’re a seasoned guard player, you probably have your own method that works nicely. The process of painting the body armor for my guys is a bit different. I needed a color that would work well with the camouflage scheme that I gave them, but contrast enough so that the model and details would not be lost. I choose to paint the body armor a solid color to help contrast it from the camouflaged fatigues.

Stormtrooper Yellow Green:German GreyStormtrooper Yellow Green:German GreyB

I’m just blocking in the colors at this point. The armor gets a coat of Vallejo Model Color Yellow Green, and all the parts that are supposed to be black or going to be metallic are painted with Vallejo Model Color German Grey. I rarely paint anything pure black anymore. Black is a difficult color to work with. You can’t shade black, and it has a tendency to obscure detail. German Grey works better as it appears to be almost black. Once it’s highlighted with another color, a black wash will shade the recess into a black color giving the illusion that the object is a black color.

Stormtrooper Red LeatherStormtrooper Red Leather B

Next, I go in a paint the webbing and leather objects with Vallejo Model Color Red Leather. This will get highlighted and then washed with a brown wash to give it a worn leather look.

Stromtrooper Highlighted Stone Grey

I now begin to highlight the armor and leather objects. I mix the base colors, Yellow Green and Red Leather, with Vallejo Model Color Stone Grey. The Stone Grey helps to lighten the color softly with out it becoming too chalky or pastel looking, which using White could do. To help blend it into the other colors, I mix in glaze medium. I don’t use exact ratios, but instead, I just eyeball it. If you go to extreme in one direction or the other, you can take the base color mixed with glaze medium and blend it together. You’ll also notice in this picture that metallic parts get a coat of Vallejo Air Color Black Metal.

Stormtrooper Gun Metal:Black MetalStormtrooper Back

At this point, I make a mixture of Vallejo Game Color Gun Metal and Vallejo Air Color Black Metal and paint the parts that I want a stronger metallic look with it. The main body of the gun remains a black metal color as does some other details on the model. This just adds variations on the model.

Storm Trooper Aluminim:Tin BitzStormtrooper Back

The final step is to add color to the flamer nozzle and handle. I used Vallejo Air Color Aluminum for the flamer handle and pilot light. The nozzle is painted with a coat of Citadel Tin Bitz. To add some contrast and depth, I mix some Vallejo Air Color Aluminum into the Tin Bitz and paint the top portion of the nozzle.

That does it for this round. The next tutorial should be quick one as all that’s left to paint are the goggles and high light the boots. Check back later, but don’t forget to go back and check out the first article.

How to Paint Imperial Guard Infantry Camouflage

Painting Imperial Guard Infantry Camouflage


As promised, I’m posting my quick little tutorial on how to paint camouflage on Imperial Guard infantry. For my upcoming Imperial Guard army I wanted to do something a bit more interesting than the usual paint scheme demonstrated above. I drew inspiration for my color/camo scheme from modern military particularly modern Russian SURPAT. I felt this color and pattern would be foreign enough to most the players here in my area that I would seem original and possibly from another planet. The challenge was matching colors. Because I was going with something that is foreign to what most Americans would model or paint, matching the colors was a challenge; however, spending time with experience scale modelers helped.


I figured getting the actual digital effect would be impossible on an infantry model, so I figured I would have to give the impression of a digital pattern. Second, I stuck with only three colors. In my opinion, I thought the black would be too stark and obliterate the other colors, so I went with the grey/khaki color, the brown, and the green. Now, let’s get down to painting.

Stormtrooper Primed

After prepping the model, I airbrushed Vallejo’s Surface Primer Grey. This dries to a very smooth finish, and the neutral color will keep the colors bright until I put a wash on it.

Stormtrooper Stone GreyStormtrooper Stone Grey B

The base color is Vallejo Model Stone Grey. It’s easier to put the dark colors of the camo pattern over a light base color, so I painted all the cloth material and anything that will receive the camo pattern in this color. Once that’s done, now comes the actual process of putting the camo pattern on. My secret tool is…


Not only is this stuff great for making paint chips, but it turns out it’s also does a good job giving the illusion of a digital camo pattern.

Stormtrooper Russian Uniform WW!!Stormtrooper Russian Uniform WWII

I started with the green color. For this, I used Vallejo Model Russian Uniform WWII. I dabbed a small piece of foam in the paint. I then dabbed the foam loaded with paint on a piece of paper before I started stabbing the model with it. You don’t want to go too crazy because you’ll be putting on another color, and you’ll want your previous two colors to still be visible.

Stormtrooper Saddle BrownStormtrooper Saddle Brown B

The brown is Vallejo Model Saddle Brown, and it’s done in same way as the green was done. At this point, you can jump between the three colors to get the right mix of camo on the miniature. If there are spots the foam is not reaching, I take a small used paint brush, load it up with a little paint, and gently stab the areas I want.

Stormtrooper Black WashStormtrooper Black Wash B

Finally, I wash the model with black wash. This does a number of things on the model. Obviously, it brings out the folds and lines of the model that the camo maybe blurring out; however, it also helps blend the colors together so there’s not such a stark contrast between grey, green, and brown.

All told, I think the painting time is maybe 10 minutes, but I would wager it’s lower. This is good for an army that can be very infantry heavy. A squad should only take an afternoon to paint, but they will still look good on the table. These will also look great on forest bases that I’m planning to put them on.

Next I’ll should you how I do the armor and weapon, so stay tuned.

Deathwing Paint Scheme: Badger Minitaire Test Model

Today, I took a big step in how I plan to paint my models. I’ve decided to use my airbrush more, and see if I can perform the zenith method of painting miniatures. I recently invested in a few colors from the Badger Minitaire paint line since they’ve been getting some positive reviews from the Warhammer community. With the Dark Venegence starter box still sitting in my work area unpainted, and the new Dark Angels codex being out, I decided I would attempt this new method of painting on a new Dark Angel army.

The weather here has finally cooperated enough to allow me to get out in the garage and do a quick test model of the Deathwing paint scheme I plan to do. Here are the results.

Deathwing Test Front

Deathwing Test Back

Again, this was my first attempt at doing anything more complicated than laying down a base coat with an airbrush, and I didn’t go into painting the rest of the model. This was simple to see how I could do the zenith painting, and what the armor would look like with the colors I picked. I used Badger Minitaire Earth, Bark, and Mummy. The results are not too bad. I would have liked the shadows to be a little dark and the gradient to be a bit more pronounced. Though, I have the feeling that if the gradient was more pronounced I wouldn’t like it. Both of these issues could probably be corrected with putting down more of the Earth color and being a little bit lighter on the two high light colors. I do, however, really like the colors. Personally, I think this paint scheme is more in line with what the Deathwing should look like instead of the strange yellow looking scheme that’s in the new Dark Angel codex. I’ll try one more test model taking into account the things I learned with this model. If the armor comes out satisfactory, then I’ll finish the entire model moving onto the other new method I’ll be employing with my models: oil washes.

If you have any tips or trick, thoughts, comments, or criticism, let me know in the comments.

Project Diary: How to Paint a Fortress of Redemption Part 2

It’s been a few weeks since I last updated about this post. That’s because things have slowed down since I’m working on the tower, and to be honest, I’ve also been distracted with the new Chaos Space Marines codex and the Horus Heresy book. I’ve been tinkering around with bits seeing what I could make, and painting test models for various paint schemes. I did take the time to get a large part of the tower done along with the floor, and so I figured I’d post an update and guide.

To begin with, this is the method I’ve used for all the floor piece for the Fortress of Redemption.

1. Major floor parts are done with Blazing Orange.

2. Parts that will be metal are painted black. In this case the hatch.

Next is a combination of washes using Secret Weapon Baby Poop and Vallejo Sepia Shade

Finally, the hatch is painted with Boltgun Metal and washed with Vallejo Sepia Shade. A light dry brush of Boltgun Metal is also applied to the floor.

The front of the tower posed a very unique challenge. I’m sure there are people out there with the air brush skills to do most of the painting with an air brush. I, however, do not have those skills, so all of the tower is painted by hand. I can say that after everything is done I’ll need to go back over and do some clean up work.

  1. Cloak was painted using Vallejo Light Grey.
  2. Wings were painted using DecoArth Colonial Blue.
  3. Halo and sword hilt was painted Scorched Brown.
  4. Rock was painted using Vallejo Deep Blue Grey.
  5. Bones and scroll were painted with Kommando Khaki.

That part alone took almost a week, and you can probably see that I haven’t even touched the bottom half of the tower.

  1. Cloak was painted using Dark Angel Green.
  2. Wings were painted using Fortress Grey trying to leave a little of the Colonial Blue still visible.
  3. Halo and sword hilt were painted using Shinning Gold.
  4. Sword was painted using Boltgun Metal.
  5. Rock was dry brushed using Fortress Grey and Skull White.

This process took another week and a half, so it was about halfway through this step that I took a break. You can clearly see in this picture where I’ll need to go back and do some clean up work.

That’s where I stand now with the Fortress of Redemption. The discouraging thing is that this is only one of the four panels that make up the tower. It throws into light how long it’s going to take me to do this. I’m not dumb enough to set a ridiculous goal of when this thing will get done, but I would like to try to have it done be the end of January. Check back for more updates.


Project Diary: How to Paint a Fortress of Redemption Part 1

The other week I posted the first part of my Fortress of Redemption build. After a quick trip to Atlanta and weather cooperating, I was able to begin to paint it. This post is both a project update as well as a tutorial on how I am painting my fortress. I don’t use Games-Workshop paints very much anymore, but I will post color equivalence as I go along. Before we begin, I’m breaking this tutorial into parts. One because the project is so large and very time-consuming, but also to show how I do various parts of the model. In this tutorial, I’m focusing on the main color of the fort, or the “armor” color as I like to call it.

STEP 1 Prime

After building was completed I primed the whole model using Floquil Light Gray Figure-Primer. I like this for a few reasons. For one, it’s an actual primer so it will adhere to plastic, metal, and resign while giving a very strong and smooth surface for paint to work on. It covers so much better than any primer GW has put out. A single 3 oz can can prime this whole model.

STEP 2 Base Coat

I base coated the whole model using Testors’ Model Master Custom Spray Enamel Dark Green. This would be equivalent to spraying the whole thing with Catachan Green. Since I don’t ever plan to strip this model and I didn’t use any brushes or an airbrush, I don’t really care that it’s an enamel paint.

STEP 3 Dry Brush

I dry brushed Anita’s Craft Paint Foliage across the entire model. You can achieve the same color using Games-Workshop’s Camo Green. Dry brushing is probably not an accurate term for what you do. I load up a large brush and wipe off most of the paint, but I then press and swirl the brush. The goal of this stage is to not necessarily get the raised edges, but also tinge the model a lighter green while allowing the base color to show through.

Streaks and splotches will probably still appear where ever you begin. That’s why I would do a quick dry brush across raised areas. The paint will also appear extremely bright when you begin, but will dull and darken as it dries.  I’m not too concerned about the streaks that visible as I will be painting all the details and wings different colors. If streaking is a problem or bothers you, then you can always go over the area with Catachan Green or Vallejo’s Olive Grey.

I chose to go with the military green scheme as opposed to the brushed metal look that appears on the box because I want all my military buildings to be uniform. Since I plan on painting an Imperial Bastion and Sky Shield in a similar scheme, I want my fortress to tie into that theme.

I will follow-up with another project update and tutorial as I move on to other sections. The next section will be the floor and tower, so check back. If you have any questions or criticism, let me know in the comments.