Warhammer 40k Space Marine Cosplay: Sizing

This is a project that I’ve been wanting to do and working on for some time. I even got a suit of Space Marine largely built.

 

However, a few issues arose. For starters, I didn’t realize it, but the size and scale was off on a lot of the armor. I also made mistakes during construction that would make wearing it and its final presentation a bit off. Then there’s the fact that my skills have improved since I began the suit.

As such, I figured I would just start over. This time though I would use Armorsmith Designer to help scale and proportion the pieces better. This is my results.

Right off the suit looks like it’ll work a lot better. I can also go in a work with each piece in the program and on paper before I cut foam thus making sure each piece is exactly the way I want it. The adjustments I made were actually small. I just adjusted the size of the chest, arms, and pauldrons. These adjustments should make the suit a bit easier to wear and fit a bit better. Though that is a relative term. I’ll still hit my goal of being roughly 7 feet tall in it too.

 

The jump pack is another interesting hurdle. Sadly, it’s the only template out there. While it is okay, I wish it was a bit better. As it is now, I foresee a lot of editing, free handing, decorating to make it better and more in line with how the miniature’s jump pack looks.

I will certainly be adding more as time goes by, but I won’t get truly back to this until after I finish Laura’s Spartan armor. Stay tuned till then.

Khorne Heldrake: A Mechanical Dragon from Hell

Finished another commission the other day, and I was able to deliver the model to the customer. Considering that he took a selfie with it, I would say he was pleased with the results. I’m eager to know what you think.

Final Heldrake 2Final HeldrakeFinal Heldrake 3

You’ll notice immediately that I didn’t use the standard plastic flight stand that comes with the model. I really hate them and feel the detract from the look of models. My method really reduces the profile which allows the model and base to blend better together. It’s also easier to handle, and it breaks down for easy storage and travel. I used the metal rods and adapters from CorSec Engineering.

Final Heldrake 5

You can see here where I mounted the adapter. Actually, I secured it in the center of the cross with resin and then filled in the holes.

Final Heldrake Base

Finally, here’s a shot of the base. I went with a lava base seeing as it a Chaos daemon engine of hellish proportions. The lava was made with PVA glue that I airbrushed, and the rocks were made out of scupltimold plaster. You can also see how the rod attaches to the base.

Until next time, let me know what you think and go by Geek Out Studio to see more of my commission, miniatures, props, and costume projects.

Dark Angels Army: Picture Day for My Space Marines

I finished a Heldrake commission yesterday, so I took this morning to take some display pictures of it. I have a rule that I don’t post pictures of my completed commissions until the customer has gotten the first chance to look at and hold their commission. You’ll be able to see pictures of the Heldrake probably tomorrow. While I was snapping pictures on the drake, I figured I’d take some time and get some good pictures of my Dark Angels. Here are the fruits of my labor:

DA Sqaud 1DA Squad 1aDA Squad 1c

We start of with a tactical squad.It’s a basic squad that I’ll be adding to as time goes. My plan is to simply build a few key sergeant options, the three assault weapons, and a few key heavy weapons.

DA Squad 2DA Squad 2cDA Squad 2dAnother tactical squad, this one comes from the Dark Vengeance box set. This squad makes for the back bone of really a second squad. I generally put the plasma cannon in the Devastator squad, and I rarely use the sergeant as is. Given how the Dark Vengeance box is still available and with the 7th edition mini-rulebook, I’ll probably have another one these squad soon.

DA LibrarianDA Librarian 3

My Dark Angels Librarian. Again, this model is from the Dark Vengeance box set, and again, I’ll probably will have another one of these guys floating around.

DA Drop PodDA Drop Pod 2A Dark Angels drop pod. I magnetized the doors to prevent them from flopping open. It’s proven to be very nice.

DA RhinoDA Razorback 2

My Dark Angels Rhino can also serve as a Razorback since I magnetized the top hatch. I didn’t magnetize everything to make every take. I tried that last time with my Space Wolves, and it was more of a pain that what it’s worth.

DA Scouts 2

The start of a scout sniper squad. I really need to finish up the rest as I tend to bring at least one squad every time I play.

DA DreadnaughtDA Dreadnaught 2DA Dreadnaught 3

I don’t actually use dreadnaughts all that much in my games, but I had this fellow laying around. I striped the old paint off of him, and painted him in a nice Dark Angels color scheme. The arms are not glued or magnetized. I just use the peg and holes that come as is in the kit.

Deathwing Knights 2

A squad of Deathwing Knights. These guys were fun painting and are a fun squad to play with.

Deathwing 2

My squad of Deathwing terminators from the Dark Vengeance box. I’m working on some more at the moment, so I’m sure you’ll see more of these guys.

DA Stormtalon 2DA Stormtalon 3DA Stormtalon

Finally, this is my Ravenwing Stormtalon. I know Dark Angels don’t have access to Stormtalons. This is for the times I ally with regular codex Space Marines. It has also stood in for my Nephilim a few times. You’ll notice I didn’t go with the standard GW base and mounting rod. I hate that plastic stand that come in the kit. This a set I picked up from CorSec Engineering. I personally think it looks better. It has a lower profile than what comes in the kit. It also unscrews for easy transport.

I hoped you enjoyed my show and tell. Let me know what you think, and if you’re interested in a commission message me here or at Geek Out Studio.

How to Paint Imperial Guard Infantry: Airborne Guard Armor

The other day I posted an article on How to Paint Imperial Guard Infantry Camouflage. Well, today, I’m going to continue the process and show you how I painted the armor. The process is not difficult, and if you’re a seasoned guard player, you probably have your own method that works nicely. The process of painting the body armor for my guys is a bit different. I needed a color that would work well with the camouflage scheme that I gave them, but contrast enough so that the model and details would not be lost. I choose to paint the body armor a solid color to help contrast it from the camouflaged fatigues.

Stormtrooper Yellow Green:German GreyStormtrooper Yellow Green:German GreyB

I’m just blocking in the colors at this point. The armor gets a coat of Vallejo Model Color Yellow Green, and all the parts that are supposed to be black or going to be metallic are painted with Vallejo Model Color German Grey. I rarely paint anything pure black anymore. Black is a difficult color to work with. You can’t shade black, and it has a tendency to obscure detail. German Grey works better as it appears to be almost black. Once it’s highlighted with another color, a black wash will shade the recess into a black color giving the illusion that the object is a black color.

Stormtrooper Red LeatherStormtrooper Red Leather B

Next, I go in a paint the webbing and leather objects with Vallejo Model Color Red Leather. This will get highlighted and then washed with a brown wash to give it a worn leather look.

Stromtrooper Highlighted Stone Grey

I now begin to highlight the armor and leather objects. I mix the base colors, Yellow Green and Red Leather, with Vallejo Model Color Stone Grey. The Stone Grey helps to lighten the color softly with out it becoming too chalky or pastel looking, which using White could do. To help blend it into the other colors, I mix in glaze medium. I don’t use exact ratios, but instead, I just eyeball it. If you go to extreme in one direction or the other, you can take the base color mixed with glaze medium and blend it together. You’ll also notice in this picture that metallic parts get a coat of Vallejo Air Color Black Metal.

Stormtrooper Gun Metal:Black MetalStormtrooper Back

At this point, I make a mixture of Vallejo Game Color Gun Metal and Vallejo Air Color Black Metal and paint the parts that I want a stronger metallic look with it. The main body of the gun remains a black metal color as does some other details on the model. This just adds variations on the model.

Storm Trooper Aluminim:Tin BitzStormtrooper Back

The final step is to add color to the flamer nozzle and handle. I used Vallejo Air Color Aluminum for the flamer handle and pilot light. The nozzle is painted with a coat of Citadel Tin Bitz. To add some contrast and depth, I mix some Vallejo Air Color Aluminum into the Tin Bitz and paint the top portion of the nozzle.

That does it for this round. The next tutorial should be quick one as all that’s left to paint are the goggles and high light the boots. Check back later, but don’t forget to go back and check out the first article.

How to Paint Imperial Guard Infantry Camouflage

Painting Imperial Guard Infantry Camouflage

Imperial_Guard_Armour

As promised, I’m posting my quick little tutorial on how to paint camouflage on Imperial Guard infantry. For my upcoming Imperial Guard army I wanted to do something a bit more interesting than the usual paint scheme demonstrated above. I drew inspiration for my color/camo scheme from modern military particularly modern Russian SURPAT. I felt this color and pattern would be foreign enough to most the players here in my area that I would seem original and possibly from another planet. The challenge was matching colors. Because I was going with something that is foreign to what most Americans would model or paint, matching the colors was a challenge; however, spending time with experience scale modelers helped.

SONY DSC

I figured getting the actual digital effect would be impossible on an infantry model, so I figured I would have to give the impression of a digital pattern. Second, I stuck with only three colors. In my opinion, I thought the black would be too stark and obliterate the other colors, so I went with the grey/khaki color, the brown, and the green. Now, let’s get down to painting.

Stormtrooper Primed

After prepping the model, I airbrushed Vallejo’s Surface Primer Grey. This dries to a very smooth finish, and the neutral color will keep the colors bright until I put a wash on it.

Stormtrooper Stone GreyStormtrooper Stone Grey B

The base color is Vallejo Model Stone Grey. It’s easier to put the dark colors of the camo pattern over a light base color, so I painted all the cloth material and anything that will receive the camo pattern in this color. Once that’s done, now comes the actual process of putting the camo pattern on. My secret tool is…

Foam

Not only is this stuff great for making paint chips, but it turns out it’s also does a good job giving the illusion of a digital camo pattern.

Stormtrooper Russian Uniform WW!!Stormtrooper Russian Uniform WWII

I started with the green color. For this, I used Vallejo Model Russian Uniform WWII. I dabbed a small piece of foam in the paint. I then dabbed the foam loaded with paint on a piece of paper before I started stabbing the model with it. You don’t want to go too crazy because you’ll be putting on another color, and you’ll want your previous two colors to still be visible.

Stormtrooper Saddle BrownStormtrooper Saddle Brown B

The brown is Vallejo Model Saddle Brown, and it’s done in same way as the green was done. At this point, you can jump between the three colors to get the right mix of camo on the miniature. If there are spots the foam is not reaching, I take a small used paint brush, load it up with a little paint, and gently stab the areas I want.

Stormtrooper Black WashStormtrooper Black Wash B

Finally, I wash the model with black wash. This does a number of things on the model. Obviously, it brings out the folds and lines of the model that the camo maybe blurring out; however, it also helps blend the colors together so there’s not such a stark contrast between grey, green, and brown.

All told, I think the painting time is maybe 10 minutes, but I would wager it’s lower. This is good for an army that can be very infantry heavy. A squad should only take an afternoon to paint, but they will still look good on the table. These will also look great on forest bases that I’m planning to put them on.

Next I’ll should you how I do the armor and weapon, so stay tuned.

Airborne Imperial Guard Camo Scheme

I’ve wanted to do an Imperial Guard army for awhile, and now that I’m selling things off to make room for new stud, I can finally do that. However, I have to make things difficult. I don’t want to do a standard Imperial Guard. No, I’m doing an Airborne Imperial Guard. Now, I’m not going to get bogged down in rules and army lists yet. This post is to show off my test model for my Imperial Gurad camouflage scheme.

Stormtrooper Test

Here it is. It’s an Imperial Guard Kasrkin stormtrooper, so the camo color and pattern are difficult to pick out, but the other photos will show it off a bit better.

Stormtrooper Test 2Stormtrooper Test 3

The harsh light and extreme close up probably doesn’t make the model look great, but on the work table, it looks good. The camo pattern was easy to achieve. I simply used a piece of foam you might find in a blister or from some pluck foam storage trays. I used a light primer, and my camo colors where equally light. I did this so when I went over the fatigues with a black wash, the miniature wouldn’t become too dark. I went with a corresponding but contrasting color for the armor to help the miniature stand out some. The lenses and goggles will get a coat of Tamiya Clear Red and Clear Blue after I seal the model and do an oil wash. Once it’s all completed, I’ll probably throw a little weathering powder on and base it on a forest base.

The only thing I’m up in the air about is the gun’s color. I don’t know if I want to do a black/gunmetal color or the camo color. I’m afraid that if I do the black/gunmetal color the hands will get lost, but the camo color might dull the miniature down and make it hard to see (I know; that’s the point of camouflage).

I’d like to hear from you.

++UPDATE++

After getting some feed back, I made a quick change to my Stormtrooper. Here’s what he looks like now.

Stormtrooper Test AAs you can see, I change the color of the gun to a black metal color.

Stormtrooper Test BStormtrooper Test C

To make sure I don’t lose the hands, I painted them in the camo scheme that the rest of the miniature is painted in.  This brings the camo out just a touch more, but because of the gun’s color everything is contrasted some. It’s just enough of a difference to help keep everything balanced.

Geek Out Studio’s First Commission: Dark Eldar Wraith Knight

Today is a big day. I sold my first commissioned miniature. I technically finished it yesterday, but I’m making a policy that my commissioners get to see the final product first before the rest of the world does. With out further rambling here it is:

Wraith Knight AI was commissioned to assemble and paint an Eldar Wraith Knight for a Dark Eldar army. The model was purchased from yoymart, which I wouldn’t really recommend. Prepping this guy to paint took almost a week and a half. Construction proved to be a challenge too since the model was a resin re-cast, and the resin used was brittle. Most it was put together using 5 Minute Epoxy Resin.

Wraith Knight CPainting was another challenge. Since I can’t really find color matches for the Dark Eldar colors, I had to use the GW colors. Those don’t really like going through an airbrush. I basically had to take apart and deep clean my airbrush with each color I used. The shield, head, and weapons were thankfully done with airbrush paints, so that was a relieve when I got to them.

Wraith Knight EThe things that I’m particularly happy with and that I’ve gotten the most compliments are the shield, jewels, and base. The jewels were done using various colors of blue mixed with glaze medium. Once they were done I went over the jewel with Tamiya’s clear blue, but I also put a gloss coat on it to make it shimmer a bit more. The base was easy to make, and the first thing I had done. I used a piece of pine bark for the rock. The snow is made by mixing white glue with some Woodland Scenics Soft Flake Snow, and the ice cycles are clear plastic rods that I melted and pulled apart over a candle. Those where the tricky part because you know fire is hot.

Wraith Knight DThis is also the first time I’m using my light box. It’s a DIY light box, so there are thousands of tutorials out there that shows you how to build one. The picture didn’t turn out as well as thought it would. I personally think the model looks better in person than in this picture. The commissioner would probably agree since him and his girlfriend sat for a few minutes just turning it around and looking at it. I think I might need to play with the lighting or the back drop to produce the pictures I want.

As always, let me know what you think.

Warhammer 40k Kill Team League Rules

killteam

I’ve been in the works of trying to get more local events going in my area. We’ve only had one event that was fun, but a bit of an ad-hoc affair since the organizer didn’t show up. I thought of doing a Combat Patrol event, which is still a possibility, but with the eminent release of 7th edition it’s going to take a bit more planning. In the mean time, I decided to begin organizing a Kill Team league. This has garnered a lot of attention and interest, so I spent last night drafting the league rules, which you can read below. I’m planning on using The Heralds of Ruin Kill Team rules for the actual game play. Since The Heralds of Ruin is somewhat stand alone, I don’t think I’ll have to worry about working 7th edition into the league until necessary. The other nice thing about The Heralds of Ruin rules is that it gives players greater control and costum-ablity over their Kill Team, so we’ll be able to see teams improve and grow over the course of the league season.

Any way, enough rambling here are the proposed league rules. I want to remind you that these are only proposed rules for the moment. While the group seems to have accepted them as a whole, these could change before the season begins. I will certainly try to track, post, or broadcast the season as it goes on, so definitely check back.

Proposed Pensacola 40k Kill Team League Rules

Date


TBA

“Pre-season” (June 17 – 28, 2014)

Full Season (July 5- August 28, 2014)

Reserved days for league play will be held at the following locations on the following days

TBS – Wednesday

Game Space – Friday

TBS – Saturday

Game Space – Sunday

Entry Fee

$10 for a single Kill Team. $4-$3 for any additional Kill Teams. This means that a player can play multiple teams, but only ONE team per player can win and participate in play-offs. Possible cap of 4 teams.

Prizes

TBA

Participants can expect prizes for the following:

1st

2nd

3rd

Best Themed / Best Painted team

Aspiriant

Rules

The league will operate as a ladder league with participants moving up or down in rank according to win/lose. At the end, there will be a bracket play-off between the top players. Top position is guaranteed a spot in the play-offs with other positions determined by other factors (Victory Points and Combat Efficiency)

League will use The Heralds of Ruin Kill Team rules and campaign rules for game play and Kill Team “leveling up”. Furthermore:

2 players cannot face against each other back-to-back. Example: Shane and Josh have just finished a game. Shane and Josh cannot play each other again until they either A) they each have played another person, or B) a week has passed since their last game.

New players are always welcomed and encouraged to join. To help with this, we will use the Underdog rules as explained in The Heralds of Ruin campaign rules as well as granting any player that challenges another player that is ranked AT LEAST 2 positions above them an automatic 1 VP no matter the outcome of the game.

Some people may get it in their heads to camp on a position for fear of losing their rank, Game dodgers or position camping will be frowned upon. If a league participant misses more than 1 week they are subject to the lose of 2 positions of their current league standing. This is subject to the League Organizer’s discretion.

Ladder Organization

As players sign up, they will be unranked until they play their first game. Players that participate in the “Pre-seaon” are free to change and adjust their Kill Team lists; however, once the league season officially begins, participants’ lists are “frozen”. Players cannot change their list except through the course of “leveling up” that is set down in the campaign rules. Players will be ranked after their first game.

It is recommended to check standing before and after your game.

“Up to the Challenge” This will be used to help facilitate new players that may with to join the league at any point as well as add challenge to top ranked players. A player that challenges another player that is AT LEAST 2 positions higher than him will automatically gain 1 VP regardless of the games out come.

A player will be moved down in position if they lose to an opponent that is ranked below them. A player will move up in position the number of spots, rounded up, of the ranked person they beat. If you are unranked and beat an unranked player, you are placed above the unranked player at the bottom of the ladder.

At the end of the last day of the season, the ladder will be frozen, and the positions will be used to seed the play-off bracket. Top position is guaranteed a spot on the play-off bracket. Other spots will be filled using a combination of participants’ Victory Points and Combat Efficiency. This will be a single elimination bracket to determine the winner of the season.

League Points

Participating in a game: Number of Victory Points earned during the game.
Painting and Modeling:
0 Points – Less than 80% of your kill team is painted.
1 Point – More than 80% of you kill team is painted.
2 Points – Kill Team is themed together. Units have correct squad markings and same base style.
3 Points – Kill Team is model and painted to “Professional” standard: Scenic bases, Highlighted and shading on models, etc.
3 Points* – Convert a unique Special Unit or Leader Unit
3 Points* – Paint a unique Special Unit or Leader Unit
*Models must be created specifically for this league and may not be previously created unique models. They most represent their Special unit or Specialist rules.
Final judgment for Best Themed / Best Painted Kill Team will be put to a vote by participants and left to the discretion of the League Organizer.
Love to hear back any feed back.

My Hopes and Fears of Warhammer 40k 7th Edition

warhammer-40000-rulebook-6th-ed

It’s a good chance that many of you have heard the news today. With the removal of the Warhammer 40k rulebook from Games-Workshops site, it’s become apparent that 7th edition is really on its way. So far there’s been a huge swing in opinions, speculations, and rants about this. The rumor that 7th edition was being released sometime this summer has been floating about since about Christmas. I’m sure there was a group that thought it wouldn’t happen. This edition has only been out for little under 2 years (I know because I was in the hospital receiving a kidney transplant when my brother got his copy of 6th edition in the mail). However, there was a portion of the community that thought that if this did happen then it would simply be a 6.5 edition. I was one of those. I still am too a certain extent. This article is simply a long draw out way for me to get my own personal thoughts and opinions together about the “What ifs” that 7th edition might bring.

For the most part, I enjoyed 6th edition. I also really enjoyed 5th edition. I will admit that there are parts of 6th edition that gets under my skin. I will admit right now that I don’t know every comma and period of the rule book. However, I am not one of those that think 6th edition is a complete wreck. I’ve enjoyed the new mechanics that have been introduced: Overwatch, Random Charge Distance, Warlord Traits, Fliers, etc. And yes, I’m even happy with Escalation and Strong Hold Assault. I know this makes me a very odd duck, but these add a flare and grand-ness that reflected the universe. If 40k is anything, it’s Big and over the top, and in my mind a lot of the new mechanics tried to capture that. Having said that, I’m not above acknowledging that 6th edition could use some fixes.

So why do I have misgivings about the approach of a new edition of 40k?

My misgivings started when it became evident that the psykic powers that were listed in the main rule book were also taken down. For me, this bothers me as I enjoy using Librarians in most of my army. They are a great way to buff parts of my army when I need it. I will also admit that I love using Prescience; however, the times I dabbled with my Death Guard Chaos Space Marines I enjoyed using some of the Biomancy powers. In my mind, the removal of the universal psykic power cards can upset the enjoyment I have with Librarians. While I certainly hope they will re-release the cards bringing all the powers up to the level of Divination and Presience, Games Workshop’s track record for doing this is not very good. What I fear is that GW will revamp all the powers but make them weaker than what they are now. My hopes are for the update to reward multiple play style be it assault heavy or shooting heavy. I hope the speculations are true that the new edition is just a repackage of 6th edition with Escalation and Strong Hold Assault wrapped into it. Maybe they will even put it in black and white that Forgeworld is legal or official. I hope for a lot of things; however, the nagging part of experience and history keeps popping up in mind to tell me that this may not be true.

I know a new edition will not help getting rid of many of the things I think players face on a daily basis; Net lists and Deathstar units were around in previous editions. A new edition will likely not fix the imbalance with most the army codices. I’m afraid that a new edition will only make those imbalances even worse. Tau is powerful not because of what the main rulebook says, but what the rules in their codex says. A new edition could curtail the problems that players have experienced with allies, but I believe that the box has been opened and may not be easy to close. Yes, there is a small part of me that feels this is a money grab and causes me to take another step towards the camp that loath Games-Workshop. Is this an edition that could be easily handled with FAQs and Erratas?

I survived the cross over from 5th edition to 6th edition. My collection is large enough that only an absolutely complete over haul of the whole game with Space Marines being changed in ways that I can’t imagine would affect me. I don’t want to seem like I’m whining or ranting. The fact is that I’ve come to enjoy using units that I haven’t used before or in sometime. A new edition could see those units go back into my box until some other edition. There’s also the simple fact that I’m lazy. I have, in my mind, only begun to get a handle on my play style and tactics, and I really don’t feel like doing that again.

I really want to hear what you have to say. Do you have the similar hopes and fears as I do? For me, I think only through dialogue can I get a grasp on what really is bugging me with the coming of a new edition.